Anatomy of the Flow - Matjaž Tančič

Stories / Anatomy of the Flow

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The Danube, the backbone of Europe, is drying up under the weight of overexploitation, pollution, and industrial development. Every drop that vanishes impacts trade, food production, and drives up the cost of essential goods across the continent. To counter this crisis, a 700 km green belt around the Mura, Drava, and Danube rivers, stretching from Austria to Serbia, has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Known as the Amazon of Europe, this region is home to the largest and richest natural river system in Central Europe, with unique biodiversity. It is threatened by climate change and poor management, leading to recurring droughts and floods. Restoring these ecosystems is no easy task. Following the designation, the EU launched the ‘LIFE RESTORE for MDD’ project in 2023 with a €20 million budget, 67% funded by the EU. The initiative plans restoration at 29 sites along the rivers, covering 2,100 km², including reconnecting river branches, widening beds, and enhancing floodplain forests.But experts says it is too little and too late. Nevertheless, implementation has been slow, plagued by corruption and competing economic interests, such as the construction of hydropower plants upstream. A complex and conflicting balance that countries like Croatia and Serbia are navigating to align with the EU goals for 2050, given hydropower's critical role in their climate adaptation strategies. Local communities hesitate to fully commit to conservation, torn between traditional fishing, the lucrative hunting trade, and frequent illegal construction, fearing the loss of their cultural heritage. Moreover, governments are often reluctant to make the environment a priority. This photographic series explores the intimate relationship local inhabitants have with these rivers and their efforts to preserve this vital connection at the gates of the European Union, encompassing Croatia, Hungary, and Slovenia—EU members—and Serbia, which remains on the sidelines. The Mura, Drava, and Danube rivers, silent witnesses to a tumultuous history, have long shaped the borders and destinies of nations. They separated Romans from barbarians, marked the boundary between the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the Ottomans, and more recently, served as a frontline during the Yugoslav wars of the 1990s. This photographic series delves into the heart of the Mura, Drava, and the crossroads of the Danube, lifelines of Central Europe. It highlights the challenges faced by men and women striving to preserve a unique natural heritage, a biodiversity threatened by short-sighted political and economic choices. These images reveal not only the fragile beauty of these landscapes but also the urgency to act to protect what remains, before these rivers become mere memories.

The Mura River forms a natural border between Slovenia and Austria for approximately 30 kilometers. This section, along with the entire length of the Mura River in Slovenia, is part of the wider Mura-Drava-Danube Biosphere Reserve. Regulation of the Mura River channel began in the 16th century for navigation and to protect nearby settlements. The river experienced its biggest change at the end of the 19th century with the Hochenburg regulation. Renaturation, or the revival of nature along the Mura River near Gosdorf on the Austrian side, is part of a larger initiative to restore and preserve the ecological balance in this river ecosystem, which is important for biodiversity and climate resilience. Restoration efforts in the Gosdorf area aim to restore the natural flow of the Mura so it regains its original appearance.

The confluence of the Mura and Drava rivers near the town of Legrad in Croatia. The confluence of the Mura and Drava rivers in Legrad, Croatia, is an important hydrological event. As two main tributaries of the Danube, their convergence significantly impacts water resources and ecological dynamics in the region.

Zeleni Osijek is a non-profit organization based in Kopački Rit, Croatia, dedicated to environmental protection and sustainable development. Their work focuses on preserving the unique biodiversity of this wetland, which is an important habitat for numerous plant and animal species. Through education, research, and community engagement, Zeleni Osijek plays a key role in raising awareness and advocating for the preservation of Kopački Rit.

Nikola Bataković from Hrvatske vode (Croatian Waters) showing the map with the area of rewilding projects near Osijek, Croatia.

Nenad Spremo is a biologist and ornithologist from Sombor (Serbia). He has been studying birds for a decade and bands four to five thousand birds annually. Over the past decade, Nenad has banded around 20,000 birds, making him the record holder in Serbia. In the photo, a reed warbler after banding.

The shadow of the cross in the late afternoon in the village of Zmajevac, one of the many former German villages in the region. This area was once home to a significant population of Podunavski Nemci, ethnic Germans who settled along the Danube River, particularly in what is now the eastern part of Croatia, Serbia, and Hungary. Following World War II, many of these German communities were displaced, but their legacy still shapes the cultural landscape of the region today.

Reka Schuster, WWF Hungary.

András Lelkes, a ranger in Letenye, Balaton-Felvidék National Park. Hungary.

Hrvoje Domazetov, a ranger in Kopački Rit, Croatia. Kopački Rit, a nature park in eastern Croatia, has a rich history dating back to the 17th century when it was part of the Bilje estate. Its significance as a protected area lies in its unique wetland ecosystem, which supports a diverse range of plant and animal species. Kopački Rit is a crucial breeding and nesting ground for many bird species, including several endangered ones, and serves as an important stopover for migratory birds traveling along the Danube and Drava river corridors.

Hungarian Grey Cattle (Magyar Szürke Marha) in Letenye, Balaton-Felvidék National Park farm. Although cattle are often associated with grazing and potential environmental degradation, they can be a valuable tool for preserving wetland meadows. With proper management, grazing can help maintain the vitality and biodiversity of wetland ecosystems.

Ervin Mezei, ornithologist and ranger.

Drava River in the midday sun. This section of the Drava, near the Heresznye Bend in Hungary, has approximately 15-meter-high sandbanks that serve as important nesting sites for European bee-eaters.

A villager from Batina in Croatia sits on the street to chat with neighbors. Most of the younger population has moved to larger cities like Osijek or Zagreb in search of better job opportunities, leaving many villages nearly empty. Some efforts, like wine tourism, are underway to bring new life to these rural areas.

Andrej Roža prepares a boat for fishing. Bački Monoštor, Serbia.

Arno Mohl Team Leader Mura-Drava-Danube, WWF Austria observing the rewilded part of Mura river in Austria.

The last hydro dam on the Mura River near Murau, Austria, is part of a series of projects aimed at boosting renewable energy. However, it has faced opposition from environmental groups concerned about impacts on biodiversity and river flow, especially near the UNESCO Mura-Drava-Danube Biosphere Reserve. This dam near Murau represents both a point of contention for conservationists and a commitment to sustainable energy production, making it a symbol of the ongoing balance between ecological preservation and energy needs in the region.

A logger cuts down a White Poplar tree along the Danube River in Serbia, part of the Vojvodina Šume forestry business. While poplars aren't highly valued for their wood, they are favored for their rapid growth and are commonly planted in managed forests. These trees play a role in meeting timber demand while preserving other, more valuable species in the region.

A rainbow in Prekmurje.

On the Danube near Apatin (Serbia), sport fishing is very popular, and freshwater fish often feature on the menu. Catfish, pike, carp, and zander are common catches. Fishing is regulated by Vojvodina Šume rangers. In September, the water level of the Danube was very low, causing the shipping channels for large transport and tourist vessels to narrow significantly.

Bűjraš workers on ferry on the Mura - Island of Love near Ižakovci. The Mura River is known for its unpredictability, as it has historically flooded and changed its course, sweeping away mills, ferries, fields, and even houses. The need for protection against these hazards led to the development of the bűjraš profession, skilled in techniques for stabilizing riverbanks and controlling the river. They used special structures called "volclins," made of branches and stones, to stabilize the river channel with vegetation. Later, concrete blocks, known as "kubiki," were added for additional protection and flow control.

In the past, there were as many as 69 mills on the Mura River. Today, only the Babič Mill remains, which has a mill wheel in the river, but the mill building itself is on land. The Babič Mill is now of great importance in the field of cultural heritage. Grain is still ground at the mill, so visitors can buy flour. Slovenia

Swimmers in Bački Monoštor on the Great Bačka Canal (Serbia). The Great Bačka Canal is a historical waterway connecting the Danube and Tisza rivers in Serbia. Built in the late 18th century, it has played a key role in transportation, agriculture, and recreation for centuries.

Anja Cigan works at the Institute for Nature Conservation of the Republic of Slovenia, where she works on a project to preserve and restore river and riparian habitats of the Mura. She participates in various conservation activities and educational events that raise awareness about the importance of rivers and nature conservation. In her free time, she is an active member of DOPPS - BirdLife Slovenia.

Corn transport in Sombor, Serbia.

Martina Vida from the LUTRA Institute in Slovenia is dedicated to protecting and researching otters and freshwater ecosystems. Through her work, she advocates for the conservation of rivers and habitats vital to biodiversity.

Bojan Tadić - head ranger and specialist for protected areas and environmental protection at Vojvodina šume (Vojvodina forests). Vojvodina Šume manages forests in the Vojvodina region, focusing on sustainable forest management, conservation, and timber production. In addition, they offer hunting tourism, promoting sustainable hunting practices while contributing to wildlife conservation and regional economic development.